Click on thumbnails below for larger pics....
This 2017 Shelby GT350 was purchased from Justin Gaines at Athens Ford, a very positive experience for us. First pics below are of Justin gassing up the GT350 prior to us picking it up.
Purchase includes a track event. (Archived website and video).
I looked at this car when it first hit dealers in 2016 but refused to pay ADM of +$10-20k and was holding out for Ford to correct the packaging in 2017 to allow for both track and electronics packages (mutually exclusive in 2016). What attracted me to this dealership was the price below MSRP and the free lifetime powertrain warranty.....and all of the staff there were GREAT.
This car is a bit different than the standard Mustang for 2017; MagneRide suspension/tuning, huge brakes, Tremec TR3160, and aero with the key difference being the motor: a new 5.2L engine with a flat plane crank (aka VOODOO).
One thing I found weird in week 1 of ownership was that the voltage fluctuated between 12.1 and 14.9 with engine running, forum thread HERE discusses this is normal and I also confirmed this with the dealership tech. This is new "smart" charging technology where the PCM decides how the battery should be charged which saves very little gas and never completely charges the battery.....may be a way to disable this though, I like constant voltage charging and batteries that don't require chargers in between trips
Good pre-delivery and ongoing checklist can be found HERE.
Non-R models have front spoiler P/N FR3Z-17626-E, this should be looked upon as a disposable part and checked before taking delivery for scrapes and/or incorrect installation.
Window Sticker, Dealer Ad, Sales Brochure, Quick Reference Guide, Owners Manual (with GT350 Supplement and revised oil filter service process after build date 2-17), Technical Specifications, Dealer Price Sheet, and Informational Video.
Owners Supplement arrived via FedEx a week after purchase and contained a certificate of authenticity, a print, a poster, a brochure, and a stand with the chassis number to hold the small scale flat plane crank- NICE
Wired V1 to mirror accessory wiring by modifying the old Viper harness and plugging pins into back of the plug and running wiring through existing channel to headliner. Pics below detail what is involved, some information on the V1 plug pinout can be found HERE (archived in pdf format HERE). Similar wiring solutions for the mirror plug can be found on Amazon.
Trustworthy Valentine 1 radar detector should help keep me out of trouble, manual HERE (archived HERE)..
First investment/upgrade was to install passenger side catch can from Ford Performance after reading these forum threads HERE and HERE, some have decided to reverse one of the lines as shown HERE for a better fit......this is what I found to work better as well.
The catch can was purchased from American Muscle, installation instructions HERE.
For now I am skipping the driver side catch can, oil on that side seems to be minimal to non-existent (I took the same approach with the Viper for the same reason)......but, I may at some point decide to install the driver side can, installation instructions HERE- According to a Ford engineer in the above referenced forum thread the driver side can will collect some oil if track level cornering forces are experienced. A simpler solution for the driver side might be the UPR Clean Side Separator which does not collect oil but prevents it from leaving the valve cover.
To establish a more linear feel to the clutch and eliminate the vague engagement point, the OE spring(s) were scrapped for the Steeda Clutch Spring Assist And Spring Perch Kit 35 Lb/In Manual Transmission (2015-2017) from CJ Pony Parts.
I did not have to use any pliers for the springs on removal or installation, all was done with hand pressure- start to finish in 10 minutes. I did lubricate all the same points where the OE assembly was lubricated, this was not noted in the provided instructions.
Some on the forums have reported this spring was not much of an improvement over OE, some even went back to OE......I have to say I'm with the majority and find that this spring is definitely an improvement and worth the $15 and 5 minutes it took to swap it out.
Twisted Shifterz GT350 Qualifier White w/ Black 6 Speed Shift Pattern Knob from eBay installed, 2 1/8" diameter and M10x1.25 threads with recess for lift-for-reverse collar. Blue Thread Lock included and required, READ the instructions that came with the knob.
Key for the thread locker to work is that the threads on the shifter and the knob have to be clean. To remove the OE knob (which also uses blue thread locker) I just used one of the rubber jar openers in the kitchen (think small rubber sheet) and a little bit of force to unscrew it....still in mint condition after removal.
Installation video of similar knob HERE.
I don't mind using a hood prop rod as a backup but prefer struts as a primary method to raise and support the hood.....so I ordered the Redline Tuning 2016+ Ford Mustang Shelby GT350 & GT350R Hood QuickLIFT PLUS (P/N 21-11030-02) from Amazon.
Hood actually opens an inch or so farther than with the prop rod. You will have to drill/cut your battery cover (P/N FR3Z-63018A16-AA).
I ordered the below to reinforce key chassis points:
- Steeda S550 Mustang Ultra Lite Low-Profile Chassis Jacking Rails (P/N 555 5205) from MA Performance
Installation Instructions HERE and Video HERE, Demonstration Video HERE
- Steeda S550 Mustang Ultralite 2-Point G-Trac Brace (P/N 555 5533) from MA Performance
Installation Instructions HERE and Videos HERE and HERE, forum discussion HERE
- Steeda S550 Mustang Rear IRS Subframe Support Braces (P/N 555 5754) from MA Performance
Installation Instructions HERE and Videos HERE, HERE, and HERE
Big THANKS to Bill Tschida at MA Performance for the superior customer service
Lloyd Ultimats from Auto Anything. Article detailing the new logo release HERE.
I ordered Black, Ebony would have been a closer match to factory carpet.
Diode Dynamics LED Interior Light Conversion Kit (Cool White) from CJ Pony Parts installed.
NOTE: Diode Dynamics is generally unresponsive to emails so not the best customer service rating from me- I would probably just use cheaper bulbs if I had it to do over- quality and customer service can't be any worse so no value to pay a premium. I assembled a guide HERE that outlines a MUCH better way to install the vanity lights in the sun visors when compared to the game of Operation their video recommends and provides lots of working room to avoid damaging the sockets and bulbs. Also check out some alternative DIY guides like this one HERE.
Diode Dynamics XP80 Backup/Reverse LED from MMS installed.
Generic S550 Installation video HERE....it was a bit more work on the GT350 since the diffuser required removal to access the light bulb. (6) Push pins removed using a screwdriver, (2) ribbed push-in retainers removed with Door Panel/Clip Remover, (4) bolts removed with 10mm wrench (front then rear since front hooks will hold diffuser up until rear bolts are removed)- pics below are color coded for fastener type, tool used, and location. It's a tight squeeze to get your hand in to access the plug; turn and pull out, replace bulb, check that it works, reassemble.
~2 weeks old, less than 600 miles on the odometer.....
After eating breakfast on the way to my paint protection installation, I got in the car to leave and....NO START
My first experience with Ford Road Service was not great: although my home dealership was within the 35 mile radius, she told me it was not so I got towed to the closest dealership. This dealership was only 10-15 minutes away from where my car was stranded but about an hour from my home.
Dallas from Hemphill Towing and Recovery showed up and did a PERFECT job getting the car loaded- no scrapes and without any input from me followed the protocol outlined in the manual- Kudos Dallas.
Matt Lane at Angela Krause Ford was awesome as well, as a GT500 owner he understood my concern leaving the car out in the weather and agreed to store it inside on the service lane- Kudos Matt.
The issue turned out to be rare; one of the wiring posts had broken off the integrated starter solenoid, maybe a hairline crack was present in the plastic post mount at manufacturing/installation that vibrated to a breaking point Because the issue was not common, the starter was not in stock at the local DC and had to be shipped from Detroit so the car was at the dealership for a few days.
What started out as a bad day turned out to be OK, happy that I got stranded somewhat close to home and had some great people to get my car to the dealership and get the issue resolved Time to reshedule that missed paint protection appointment.....
SpaceCity Heel/Toe Spacers (discount code M6G) and Fingerprint Free Trunk Strap V4 (Red) installed. Props to Oy for bringing these small-detail-items to market.
Heel/Toe Spacers installation instructions HERE, forum discussion HERE. 1/2" seems perfect, pedal height is not raised drastically as you can see in the pictures but just enough so that heel/toe does not require as much effort.
Trunk Strap installation instructions HERE. This addition works exactly as I desired, I'm still not sure why Ford does not have some type of similar provision as OE....I've had older German cars that have handles molded into the interior trunk panel for this reason.
ZL1 ADDONS Rock Gaurds installed.
Wanting to make my GT350 sound more like a GT350R, I opted for the Corsa Resonator Delete/Stainless Steel Double X-Pipe 3" (P/N 14347) from Maryland Speed.....but the wait was a bit extensive; 6+ weeks and counting so time to dispute credit card charges since these guys refuse to cancel but keep giving me the runaround....first item ordered and may be last item received- ..... just go Amazon.
After following up with Corsa directly they price matched Maryland Speed and shipped same day
Wanting to make my GT350 handle more like a GT350R, I initially looked at the Ford Performance Springs (P/N M-5300-W) but decided I did not want it any lower so I opted for the OE GT350R springs and rear sway bar from AutoNation Ford White Bear Lake (front sway bar is the same P/N on R and non-R):
I also purchased new hardware that Ford listed as one time use:
- R rear sway bar (P/N FR3Z-5A772-E)
- R rear sway bar bushings (x2, P/N F2GZ-5493-C)
- R right rear spring (P/N FR3Z-5560-W)
- R left rear spring (P/N FR3Z-5560-X)
- R front springs (x2, P/N FR3Z-5310-M)
Installation videos that might help are HERE (transcript).
- Front Strut Lower Bolt (x4, PN W715932-S439)
- Front Strut Lower Nut (x4, P/N W520517-S450)
- Front Strut Upper Mount Nut (x6, P/N W715135-S440)
- Rear Upper Shock Mount Bolt (x4, P/N W718383-S439)
- Rear Lower Shock Mount Bolt (x2, P/N W716286-S439), if removing the rear shock you will also need this- I did not.
Vorshlag Spring comparison HERE and HERE.
Forum discussion HERE, HERE, HERE.
Since I was already taking apart the suspension to install springs and would need an alignment, I figured it would also be a good time to install:
- SPC EZ CAM XR (16MM - 2) Camber Bolts (P/N 81280) from SaberSport eBay
Installation instructions HERE (SPC) and HERE (BMR)
- Steeda 555-4438 Alignment Kit (IRS Subframe 15-18 Mustang) from Amazon
Installation instructions HERE, videos HERE and HERE
Forum Discussion HERE
- Caliperfexion Stainless Studs and Extension Kit to replace the one time use front brake caliper bolts.
Installation instructions, Drawing and Specifications, 17-4PH Stainless Description, 4340 Manganese Phosphate Description
Forum Discussion HERE, HERE, and HERE
Oil Analysis performed by Blackstone Laboratories
2018 Mustang Owners Manual (the fuse guide here seems to apply to my 2017, maybe yours as well?)
GT350 Reviews and Articles:
GT350 Video: *High Speed Connection Recommended*
GT350 DIY Guides/Installation Instructions: