BMW
E90/E92 OEM Alarm Installation BY e90post.com’s CC
330i (E92 Notes and some
additional pics by Bill)
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpost.php?p=15143&postcount=1
I went forward with my E90 alarm install, and took some pics
along the way. I would say that it is an easy install, as long as you have some
mechanical confidence and experience. The "hardest" part is removing
the left rear wheel to install the siren. Since our cars do not come with a
jack, you have to use your own (or buy the BMW jack), and there are special
lift points that require a special fitting so as not to damage the lift point
(nice work BMW). If you have any doubts about your ability to safely lift your
car with a jack, do not attempt this install.
The E90 Factory Alarm kit from BMW (pn 66 12 0 403
658) lists for $300 but I got mine for about $229 from Circle BMW. They
supplied the kit and printed out the offical BMW PDF
instructions, which dealers have access to. Typically the kit does not include
printed instructions since they obviously prefer the dealer to do the
installation. The kit is pretty minimal, and kind of a crime that it costs so
much and it not included with every car. It consists of an ultrasonic module for inside
the vehicle, a hood switch, and a siren that goes up under the left rear wheel
well. See picture below:
1. Remove Negative
To get started, first disconnect the negative battery terminal. As you know,
the battery is in the trunk (or "boot" for you English-English
speakers). The nut on top of the negative (black) terminal is 10mm. I put the
removed negative terminal on a rag so that it would not drop back on to the
battery or touch the positive terminal.
2. Install Ultrasonic Module into interior of car.
To install the Ultrasonic Module, you must pop open the rear dome light fixture
inside the cabin. Make sure you do the REAR one (aft of the sunroof).
This was not specified in the instructions, and I spent about 1 hour figuring
out that the front light fixture was not correct! To remove the rear dome light
fixture, I used a plastic spatula as a pry tool so as not to damage the
headliner or plastic. When you do this MAKE SURE your hands are very
clean, as you will stain your headliner if they are not. (really,
I am serious about this) The spot to pry is immediately behind each reading
light, at the back edge of the fixture. There is a release tab immediately
behind each circular light, and you have to get the pry tool in just the right
place. I did one side, and then held it with my hand and did the other side.
You should not have to use tremendous force if you get the pry tool in the
right place. Don't worry if the frosted clear light surround pops off when you
do this, it easily snaps back in place later:
Once the tabs are released, I found it easiest to unplug the wiring harnesses
to completely free the dome light fixture from the car. (This is not necessary,
but it makes the next step easier). Then you simply put the ultrasonic module
in place (it snaps in) and reinstall the dome light fixture into the car,
taking care to connect the original wiring harness for the lights, and the
previously unused one that snaps in to the awaiting ultrasonic module you just
installed:
3. Installation of the Hood Switch
For the next step, open the hood (or "bonnet" for you English-English
speakers) and locate the hood switch wiring along the drivers side edge of the
engine compartment. It is taped to another batch of wires neatly. You will see
a cap with 3 blue dots on the end, which is a termination for the harness that
will eventually plug into the alarm hood switch.
CAREFULLY cut or unwrap the felt tape that holds the hood switch wires
to the larger wiring bundle, and pull them up toward the windshield. You will
need to remove the cover for the brake reservoir, and it is also easier if you
remove the short weather-stripping piece and plastic bracket that are shown in
the pictures below:
(E92 NOTE: In my installation on my
E92, the hood switch wire was already ran/clipped and the brake reservoir cover
did NOT need to be removed, then only steps required were cutting the tape
holding the plug to the harness and removal of the “plug” prior to connecting
it to the switch- Bill)
These pieces pop right off easily, but use care when doing the brake reservoir
cover. It has a clip at the front and back that you should release when
removing.
Once these pieces are removed, straighten out the hood switch wiring, and you
will notice 2 plastic clips that are used to mount the wiring to 2 plastic tabs
in a channel near the hood switch mounting location. Simply push them down onto
the tabs to mount them.
Next, mount the hood switch bracket. There is only one correct orientation of
this bracket. The notch in the bracket goes toward the middle of the car and
aft. Secure this with the provided screw:
Now, mount the hood switch into the bracket (it basically drops in) and connect
the wiring harness to the switch. You must remove the "plug" that is
in the connector first. In the first pic, the plug is not yet removed.
3. Installation of the Siren in the wheel well
For the next step, you must jack up the vehicle and
remove the left rear wheel. This is the "scariest" part of the
install. If you have any doubts about doing this safely, do not perform this
install. Apparently there is a special tool that fits into the plastic jacking
points under the vehicle. They look like upside-down boxes. I just used a block
of wood that I cut for this purpose that fit inside each "box" and
protruded down below the lift point just far enough to prevent damage from my
flat floor jack platform. I suggest buying the fitting or tool from BMW,
though.
Before jacking I loosened the lugs slightly (17mm socket) to make it less scary
when removing the wheel when lifted. Immediately after jacking the car up, I
put 2 jackstands under 2 different parts of the rear
suspension that appeared strong enough to support the weight of the car if the
jack failed. Always assume your jack will fail! Since I had the lugs
loosened slightly, I was able to easily able to remove the wheel once lifted.
Next you must remove the wheel arch cover, which is the felt lining inside the
wheel well. This is pretty easy. There are about 10 nuts that must be removed, 10mm and 8 mm. Make sure you get them all. Then
simply pull the felt liner out and set it aside.
(NOTE: I found after jacking the car up I had enough space
to remove the bolts/nuts/liner without removing the wheel)
Look up to the top of the wheel well. There is a cavity up there with some
unused wiring, which is neatly tied up with felt tape, and 3 threaded studs.
Undo the felt tape to release the connector. Place the supplied bracket over
the exposed studs and secure it with the hex nuts. (10mm I think).
Next, connect the siren to the siren mount with the supplied nut.
Remove the "plug" from the connector in the wheel well, and plug the
connector into the siren. There is a plastic grommet that pushes into the
bracket to support the weight of the siren when it is not mounted. Make sure
you push this into the bracket before letting the siren "hang".
Then install the siren mount to the bracket with the supplied screws. Make sure
that the wires are not pinched between the wheel well
and the siren mount. Securely fasten these screws but do not over tighten.
Finally, replace the felt wheel arch cover and the rear wheel. Make sure you
get the cover tucked in to all the right places and make sure to replace ALL
mounting screws. Torque specs for the rear wheel are between 120 and 140 Nm,
which translates to about 90 lb/ft. Make sure to use a
torque wrench and check the torque again after a short drive. Do not over or
under torque!
If your car has had the proper software updates and programming, the alarm may
function immediately after installation. Mine didn't, and I have to go to my
dealer and have the software updated to activate the alarm. If you have Nav, you can configure several parameters of the alarm. If
you don't have Nav, you may have to live with all
features active. Consult your dealer for different configurations.
Enjoy!